AN INSPECTOR CALLS

He pays his way... and tells it like it is

A RETURN visit to the Crown & Garter in leafy and prosperous Inkpen, Berkshire. It didn’t go well several years ago and the people in charge got cross, disputing every tiny criticism and threatening legal action.

Which is like a film director suing a critic for calling his movie a turkey.

The new owner is a local woman who has various coffee shops and enterprises, including a cafe in Hungerford, all under the name of Honesty.

She’s made some big changes at this pretty country pub and improved the food in such a way that it’s unrecognisable to how it was.

Even so, it’s a pity that the entrance is at the back of such a handsome building that dates back to 1640. Its red-brick frontage is its finest feature.

The main bar area has been modernised, which means farewell to the open fire and hello to indifferent furniture, with nothing much of inspiration on the walls.

The ten rooms sit around a courtyard, where there are various tables and chairs, and there’s a further large grassy area at the front of the pub, which must get busy at weekends.

We’re here on a Monday and it’s quiet, but the young man who checks us in is infectiously bubbly. He’s also the chap who serves us drinks, brings our food and I dare say he lends a hand with the washing up. There’s a big emphasis on locallysourced ingredients, and it pays off. The mushroom Scotch egg starter is a triumph and hats off, too, to the basilcrusted rack of lamb sitting on delicious fondant potato. All rooms are similar in size, although ours is the only one with a bath. Not sure you would want to spend more than a night here. It feels like staying in a better-than-average motel, which might be because the rooms are all on the ground floor and you sense the decor might be identical. But it’s good value, friendly, and a marked improvement over the previous regime. Honestly. Crown & Garter Great Common Road Inkpen Common Berkshire RG17 9QR Tel: 01488 668325 crownandgarter.co.uk Doubles from £85 B&B ★★★✩✩