YNYSHIR, WALES

Best for: big spenders You won’t get much change out of £500 at Ynshir. Per head. It’s also pretty remote (unless you live in North Wales) and dinner stretches on for a good few hours. Oh, and don’t expect to go in with a list of personalised dining requests. (‘We do not cater for any dietary requirements and do not offer substitutions for any of the dishes.’) But chef-proprietor Gareth Ward is a master of technique and flavour, melding classical French, fiery Thai and refined Japanese. It’s not for everyone, but it’s a dinner like no other. Prepare to have your mind blown. From £380pp; siop-ynyshir.myshopify.com