Long weekend in Lucca

CHAT-UP LINE Fancy a romantic city break in Tuscany without the tourist hordes? Sidestep Florence, Siena and Pisa, and instead head to Lucca, a gorgeous medieval city that’s blissfully quiet in comparison – and just a 30-minute taxi ride from Pisa airport.

PLOTLINE

Composer of immortal operas La Bohème, Tosca and Madama Butterfly, Giacomo Puccini is Lucca’s ultimate alumnus. His piano is displayed in the home where he was born in 1858, now the Puccini Museum (entry £7.85, puccinimuseum.org). See personal letters, cartoon self-portraits and spectacular costumes from early productions.

FORM A LINE

The city’s musicality lives on with the annual Lucca Summer Festival which has featured huge names from the Rolling Stones to Robbie Williams. For 2024, there’s Ed Sheeran (8 and 9 June) and

Rod Stewart (7 July). Tickets from £52, lucca summerfestival.it. More acts to be announced.

HORIZON LINE

From the bedroom windows of the Grand Universe Hotel, the city is a beguiling Renaissance redhead, all terracotta roofs, treetops and towers. In homage to musical Lucca, it has a resident composer, who will write personal piano preludes for guests. In the basement the wine cellar reveals Roman ruins – par for the course in a city of such archaeological heritage. (Doubles from £220, granduniverselucca.com).

FINISH LINE

Admiring the intricate marble façade of Lucca cathedral, you’ll sense a ceaseless hustle and bustle behind you as reams of pilgrims arrive (and depart). Many will have walked the historic Via Francigena between Canterbury and Rome, which takes around 100 days to complete on foot (viefrancigene.org).

CIRCLE LINE

Does a three-month-long pilgrimage sound a bit much? Try the Lucca loop instead. The city wall, 12 metres high, has a smooth pathway that’s ideal for bike riders, pedestrians and cycle-rickshaws content with covering just over 4km.

BEELINE

After working up an appetite, head to La Linea (Via Vittorio Emanuele II 28) for oozing pizzas and jolly service. The best gelato dessert is at Gelateria De’ Coltelli (Lungarno Antonio Pacinotti 23) – its almond and chocolate flavours are heaven.

BREADLINE Buccellato di Lucca is a local speciality: a raisin-loaded loaf that was a favourite of the Roman army. Try it at traditional bakery Forno A Vapore Amedeo Giusti (Via Santa Lucia 20), before heading opposite to Antica Bottega Di Prospero (no 13), the ultimate store for foodies. Local must-trys include panzanella salad and roasted cod.

GUIDELINE Book a walking tour with Gabriele Calabrese at turislucca.com to learn everything you need to know about Lucca’s history and culture. Calabrese is the type of guy who delves through the city’s archives for fun, so you know you’re in good hands.

FLATLINE Saint Zita died in 1272 – but her body lies, still intact, in a silent side chapel at Basilica San Frediano. Pay your respects, then climb to the top of the belltower for infinite views over spires and tiles.

BUY LINE

Lucca is interiors heaven, crammed with antiques shops and modern homeware stores. Visit Antiqua Di Gabriella Di Gregorio (Via del Battistero 28) for collector’s items; Sorelle Carozzi (Via del Gallo 21) for vintage and modern treasures; and Chiasso Barletti, an alley of indie shops selling handmade jewellery and vivid ceramics.

PIPELINE

Swish store Uashmama (Piazza dell’anfiteatro 30-31) sells bags and purses made from recycled paper, a nod to Lucca’s lucrative (if unlikely) industry: toilet roll. Fret not – the factory is well beyond the city walls.