Is menopausal skin really a thing?

Yes, say the brands – and they’ve got the science (plus, of course, some new creams) to prove it

These days brands seem to be falling over themselves to talk to women about the menopause. But when it comes to skincare, is it really the other ‘m’ word at play: marketing? Well, ‘not necessarily’ seems to be the answer.

‘Menopause-targeted skincare ranges will generally have been created and tailored specifically to meet the needs of menopausal skin, including the perimenopause,’ explains Dr Eleanor Bradley, skin scientist for Boots’ No7 Beauty Company. These needs include dryness, sensitivity and dullness. The No7 range ‘has been formulated based on published scientific research with the University of Manchester into what happens beneath the surface of the skin during the menopause, combined with consumer research at No7 on thousands of menopausal women’, says Bradley. All of this has informed the products created, so there’s an Instant Cooling Mist (£14.95), alongside an Instant Radiance Serum (£32.95), Protect & Hydrate Day Cream (£32.95) and Nourishing Overnight Cream (£32.95, no7beauty.co.uk), which feature ingredients such as soy isoflavones (a phytoestrogen that can support collagen production). Boots is so dedicated to the menopausal cause it also signposts ‘Menopause Friendly’ products in its stores.

Meanwhile, Clarins has recently updated its Super Restorative range, which, points out its director of responsible innovation Marie-hélène Lair, ‘has always been formulated for skin experiencing changes due to perimenopause and menopause – an area we’ve never shied away from’. This update sees the addition of harungana extract to both its Super Restorative Day Cream (£77) and Night Cream (£81, clarins.co.uk), which acts like a retinol (think helping to boost cell turnover, collagen and also firmness).

It’s about supporting menopausal skin’s ‘decline of oestrogen and reduced hormone activity, which leads to a slower production process within cells and [a slower] renewal process, making the skin thinner, less dense and wrinkles more pronounced’, says Lair. Younger YOU staff who tried the cream loved it too, so can’t anyone benefit? ‘Our ethos is to provide formulations that answer skincare needs rather than dictate your requirements based on your age, so if you’re experiencing some of the hormonal skincare changes commonly associated with menopause it could definitely be of benefit,’ says Lair.

Meanwhile Prai’s Menoglow range is selling briskly at Marks & Spencer and a new tonic was recently added. Founder and CEO Cathy Kangas says that it’s important we have easy and targeted skincare options for women at this stage. ‘Our customers are in their 40s and we need to educate them on what happens to skin during this time and simplify the skincare they need with a range designed for [it].’ For Kangas, Menoglow was born from personal experience: ‘When I went through the menopause it felt like I’d aged overnight. No one was talking about it.’ Prai, she says, was one the first brands to bring the conversation into the beauty mainstream.

It’s also worth remembering that a good skincare routine put in place long before the menopause will help in the longer term. Jane Scrivner, founder of her eponymous skincare brand, points out that ‘from the age of about 23 to 25 we lose one per cent of collagen a year, thus it’s important to look after your skin’s physiology so it’s the best it can be at any age’. In other words, don’t just wait until your oestrogen levels have fallen dramatically and then start trying to replace what’s being lost because ‘often the skin’s already had 15 to 20 years of not having things replaced’. Try adding her truly excellent Purifying Cleanser Skin Optimising Gel to Milk Formula (£49, janescrivner.com) to your routine; it’s full of pro-collagen and elastin jojoba oil and leaves skin feeling cleansed and well cared for – no stripping or drying. @edwinaingschambers

From our mid-20s we lose one per cent of collagen a year