A journey back to the golden age

THERE’S a touch of theatricality to Kimpton Charlotte Square, which sits on the fringe of Edinburgh’s historic New Town.

A block north of Princes Street, overlooking an elegant garden square, the interconnected Georgian townhouses are right in the heart of the capital yet manage to feel tucked away.

Stacks of leather suitcases and wicker umbrella stands lend a golden-age-of-travel feel to the entrance that permeates beyond in the Moroccan-themed library with its jewel-coloured fringed velvet chairs, low tables and fireplaces decked with lanterns and African jugs.

Bedrooms are all muted wood panelling and cream walls hung with an eclectic mix of artwork, sumptuous cushion-festooned beds, industrial-style desks, tartan throws and button-back chairs.

The devil is in the quirky details: red, old-fashioned bedside telephones and enamel ‘tuck boxes’ with Scottish treats (Tunnock’s wafers and Mackie’s crisps) are positioned alongside tea and coffee. Draw the heavy velvet curtains to reveal views of the gardens. Step outside and see Edinburgh’s historic castle. The city has the buzz of an interval crowd as it re-emerges from lockdowns to a clutch of new visitor attractions.

Just around the corner, the oncethriving House of Fraser store is now an all-singing Johnnie Walker Experience, with tours (from £25) charting the history of Scotland’s iconic square-bottled whisky (complete with tastings) and a rooftop bar with fantastic views.

The ice rink is back after a break, as is the Christmas market, and there’s even a new train service to London operated by Lumo. It aims to take on the airlines with cutprice fares (from £19.90 advance bookings) and an eye-catching allelectric blue train. The hotel’s Baba restaurant blends Middle Eastern and Celtic menus to mouth-watering effect: the mezze plates, including baba ganoush with pomegranate and mint, whipped smoked mackerel with sweet and sour cucumber and chilli mozzarella, cost from £5. Mains including slow-cooked harissa lamb, chargrilled steak and grilled monkfish start at £13.

The glass-roofed interior courtyard garden serves light meals, whisky cocktails and buffet breakfasts. Both eateries are popular with locals for the exotic backdrop as much as the food.

For travellers, it’s the perfect place from which to explore Edinburgh, or stay put and allow the hotel to hog the limelight.

The rooms: Spacious, comfortable rooms with quirky, individual touches and great views.

The USP: A golden age of travel ambience that harks back to its 18th Century surroundings.

The food: Middle Eastern mezze and charcoal-grilled Scottish lamb, beef and seafood.