Why you really should keep an eye on Uruguay

URUGUAY is often missed out, tucked away between its two huge neighbours Argentina and Brazil. Yet it’s a delightful country, a little larger than England but with a population of just 3.4million – with Spanish and Portuguese colonial architecture, rolling wine regions and thermal springs.

Long sandy shores attract the continent’s great and good while ranches offer horseriding in the most remote countryside.

Uruguay is wealthy – it enjoys the continent’s highest GDP per capita – plus there are high literacy levels, low corruption and a stable democracy: an oasis of South American calm. Here’s our guide...

COLONIAL CHARM

ON THE shores of the River Plate, the small city of Colonia del Sacramento was founded by the Portuguese in 1680 and it has a peaceful feel. A series of museums in colonial-era buildings tells the history, including a brief British invasion in 1807.

The biggest attraction is Calle de los Suspiros, or the ‘street of whispers’, where it’s rumoured that those who sigh three times will find the love of their life. Plenty of good steak restaurants and bars serving pisco sours are scattered about.

Don’t miss: The convent of San Francisco Xavier, dating from 1683.

Where to stay: Doubles at the Radisson Colonia from £78 (radissoncolonia.com).

SOUTH AMERICA’S ST TROPEZ

PUNTA DEL ESTE has long been a jet-set favourite, with its golden sands, lively restaurants, cocktail bars and top-class hotels. A film festival held each July adds to the glamour, with past guests including Anita Ekberg, Rita Hayworth, Pamela Anderson and Antonio Banderas.

Don’t miss: Museo Paseo de Neruda – dedicated to Pablo Neruda, a Chilean poet who lived there.

Where to stay: Doubles from £80 at Awa Boutique Hotel (awahotel.com).

BOHEMIAN HIDEAWAY

JOSE IGNACIO, an hour’s drive north-east of Punta del Este, is another beach resort but much less flashy. Once a quiet fishing village, tourists arrived when a busy road was installed, yet it has remained discreet and chic.

Expect a bohemian streak with little artsand-crafts shops and galleries. La Huella is run by top chef Francis Mallmann and serves delicious sushi, grilled fish and steaks (paradorlahuella.com).

Don’t miss: A walk to the lighthouse. Where to stay: Doubles from £115 at La Viuda de Jose Ignacio (hotelesdelaviuda. com.uy).

FOODIE HEAVEN

HOTEL Garzon is one of Uruguay’s bestknown restaurants, and also run by Francis Mallmann. The namesake village, 30 miles from Jose Ignacio, is a sleepy place deep in

the countryside with a quiet main square, and worth a visit whether you go to the restaurant or not.

If you do, expect top-quality steaks, including rib-eyes with chimichurri and grilled shrimps. It’s another celebrity magnet, too – actress Cameron Diaz recently popped by. Don’t miss: The intriguing Garzon Sculpture Park (garzonsculpturepark.com).

Where to stay: Doubles from £700 at Hotel Garzon (restaurantgarzon.com).

ON THE RANCH

ONE of the best ways to get to know Uruguay is a stay on an estancia (a grand estate, often with a working ranch) or posada (a country lodging). You may even get the chance to round-up cattle with gauchos (cowboys) – see estancias-uruguay. com. Beef from the cattle helped establish Uruguay’s wealth in the late 19th Century.

Don’t miss: A cool drink on the veranda at sunset.

Where to stay: Doubles at Estancia

Los Platanos from £72 (estancialosplatanos.com).

CAPITAL DELIGHTS

THE capital, Montevideo, is said to have the best quality of living in Latin America, which certainly seems true in the affluent neighbourhoods near Parque Rodo and Playa Pocitos. And the old port has been regenerated with upmarket steakhouses and bars.

Palacio Salvo is a striking landmark where you can take tours to the top for terrific views from what was once South America’s highest building. It is also on the site where the tango was first performed in 1917. Don’t miss: Estadio Centenario, where the first football World Cup was held in 1930. Where to stay: Doubles at Cottage Puerto Buceo Hotel from £96 (hotelcottage. com.uy).

HOT SPRINGS

HEADING north from Colonia del Sacramento, following the River Plate, you come to the city of Salto and the close-by Termas del Dayman – Uruguay’s biggest and hottest thermal springs, reaching 111F (44C).

The waters are said to be great for treating neurological disorders and are owned by public authorities. In the same region, the Termas del Arapey are upmarket and quieter alternatives, and more hot springs are to be found around Salto Grande.

Don’t miss: The spectacular Salto Grande Bi-national Dam, which sits close to the Argentine border.

Where to stay: Doubles at La Posta del Dayman from £68 (booking.com).

WONDERFUL WINE

URUGUAY’S wines are first-rate – and much overlooked internationally – with its most famous grape being tannat.

The variety was introduced by Basque immigrants in the 1870s and has since flourished thanks to the local conditions – the vineyards are on about the same latitude as renowned vineyards in Barossa Valley in Australia and Stellenbosch in South Africa.

The velvety red wine is now produced in greater quantities here than in Europe. Most of the famous vineyards in the region to the north of Montevideo grow the grape, including Bodegas Carrau, Bodega Santa Rosa and the aptly named Bodega Bouza. Tours and tastings are organised – the ‘ten best wineries in Uruguay’ can be found at winetourism.com and uruguay.wine. Don’t miss: The excellent local Albarino white wine.

Where to stay: Doubles at Chacrita del Sur B&B from £79 (tierramorauy.com).