EATING OUT

Tom savours The Devonshire: a new pub and grillhouse in Central London that’s perfectly old-fashioned

Well, it’s a dream team at

The Devonshire, no doubt about that. Ashley Palmer-watts, former head chef of the Fat Duck, behind the stoves – or, in this case, beside the vast open grill. Oisín Rogers – last seen at the Guinea Grill and one of London’s great landlords – takes his place by the beer pumps. While Charlie Carroll, founder of Flat Iron (14 branches, with the quality and value still as fine as ever), completes this hospitality supergroup.

Situated in an old Jamie’s Italian, just behind Piccadilly, the downstairs pub is all floral carpets, hidden snugs and £2 sausages on a stick. A proper, old-fashioned boozer, the place for a swift pint or a serious session, with some of the best Guinness you’ll find in the

Iberico ribs offer two bites of tight-textured, sweetly piggy joy